The history and soul of the Jewish quarter in Le Marais – A day of discovery

The current Île de la Cité is one of the first Parisian neighborhoods where Jewish communities settled, dating back to the 5th century, particularly around the former « Rue de la Juiverie, » located near the old Saint-Étienne Cathedral, which was demolished in 1163 to make way for Notre-Dame. Opposite the western tip of the island once stood the Île aux Juifs (« Island of the Jews »), now the Square du Vert-Galant following the construction of the Pont Neuf. During the Middle Ages, this small island became a site of executions for Jewish individuals. It was also on this « Île aux Juifs » that Jacques de Molay, the last Grand Master of the Knights Templar created in Jerusalem, was burned at the stake on March 18, 1314.

At Notre-Dame, the stones tell stories from the Old Testament and recount the turbulent relationships between the Church and the Jewish community. On the western façade, 28 monumental statues of the Kings of Judah and Israel dominate the scene, with a proud King David atop his lion. These kings, sometimes mistaken for the Kings of France, paid a heavy price for this confusion: their heads were decapitated during the Revolution. On either side of the Last Judgment portal, two other statues personify the defeated Synagogue and the triumphant Church, suggesting the blindness and decline of the Hebrew faith in contrast to Christianity.

More discreetly, the southern portal offers one of the most moving testimonies of medieval Judaism, depicting a rabbi, a Torah scroll, and a bimah. And in 1983, history took a different turn: Jean-Marie Lustiger, of Jewish origin, became the Cardinal of Paris, building a bridge between the two religions.

In the 20th century, Christian antisemitism gave way to that of the Nazis. At the far end of Île de la Cité, I invite you to discover a striking place of remembrance: the Memorial to the Deportees of France between 1941 and 1944. Built on the site of a former prison, it offers a sober and deeply moving setting, perfect for reflection. At the heart of the monument, a crypt holds the remains of an unknown deportee, while engraved stars bear witness to the countless lives cut short. On the walls, the words of poets like Éluard, Aragon, and Sartre resonate, giving voice to this silence heavy with history. A profound tribute that leaves no visitor untouched. Chilling yet essential.

Let’s now cross the Seine to reach the right bank of the river!

The Shoah Memorial is another deeply moving place of remembrance. In addition to the Wall of the Righteous, which honors those who saved Jews, discover the Wall of Names, where the 76,000 French Jews sent to the camps are listed. The crypt, sober and poignant, holds the ashes of camp victims, brought back after the war, mixed with soil from Israel. At its center, an eternal flame burns in tribute to the six million Jews exterminated during the Holocaust. Also explore the permanent and temporary exhibitions, as well as the bookstore, which is rich in works on the Holocaust and human rights. An essential place.

After a morning deeply marked by reminders of tragedies, it’s time to fully celebrate life. Let’s head to the Pletzl and let yourself be swept away by the vibrant energy of the neighborhood! But before that, let’s take a delightful lunch break at Tavline, my favorite restaurant in the area!

Tavline is a true slice of Tel Aviv right in the heart of the Marais, and believe me, it makes all the difference! This vibrant restaurant takes me every time on a culinary journey through Israeli flavors, inspired by family recipes and the energy of Tel Aviv’s food markets. Each bite is an explosion of flavors, with Mediterranean and Oriental spices like Zaatar and Mechaia that instantly transport me to the sun-drenched East. Behind this creative cuisine is Kobi Villot-Malka, a former chef trained by Alain Ducasse, who pours his heart and expertise into every dish. The result? A true delight for the taste buds, every visit!

Let’s now continue with a walk through the narrow streets of the Pletzl. Designed in 1913 by Hector Guimard, the creator of the famous Parisian metro entrances, this synagogue is a true masterpiece of Art Nouveau, built for the recently arrived Russian Hasidic community in Paris. Every time I pass by, I can’t help but admire its intriguing façade, made of agglomerated stones on a reinforced concrete frame. Wavy, it gives the building a remarkable sense of grandeur, despite its tight location between two buildings. The narrow windows and the vegetal motifs add a unique, almost secretive touch to the Synagogue of Rue Pavée.

This street is the vibrant heart of the Pletzl, named after the former horticultural area where Jews settled as early as the 13th century, before being expelled by the King of France in the following century. After the revolutionary emancipation of 1791, the Jewish community slowly rebuilt itself. Until the 1930s, thousands of Jews moved to the Marais, transforming the neighborhood into a true Parisian shtetl, with its shops, traditions, and a unique atmosphere that still endures.

The tragedies of World War II, which decimated more than half of the Jewish population in the neighborhood, left an indelible mark. In the 1960s, the arrival of Sephardic Jews from North Africa revived the area. Then, in 1973, Louis de Funès’ film *Rabbi Jacob*, which became a staple of popular culture, immortalized this street, giving it a special place in the collective memory.

Some notable and historical places on Rue des Rosiers:

• At number 4 bis, a commemorative plaque honors the staff and students of the ORT school (a Jewish philanthropic educational organization founded in Russia in 1880) who were deported to Auschwitz by the Gestapo and the Vichy police.
• At 7 Rue des Rosiers, the façade of the former restaurant run by Jo Goldenberg preserves the memory of the tragic attack on August 9, 1982, which claimed six lives and left 22 injured.

• At number 8, discover the former Saint-Paul Hammam, founded in 1863. It’s an iconic place in Jewish social and ritual life. Don’t miss the splendid red granito cladding that adorns the façade.
• At 10 Rue des Rosiers, step through the archway of the Hôtel d’Albret to discover the peaceful Rosiers Joseph Migneret Garden, dedicated to this Righteous Among the Nations who saved children from the nearby School of the Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais.
• If you want a quick bite, the Florence Kahn Bakery at 24 Rue des Ecouffes, at the corner of Rue des Rosiers, is ideal. This « blue shop » with a 1932 façade listed as a Historical Monument offers a wide variety of traditional Yiddish flavors. At 27 Rue des Rosiers, you’ll also find the « yellow shop » of Sacha Finkelstajn, another bakery-caterer-pâtisserie known for its Yiddish flavors in Paris. All tourist guides will tell you that the true institution of the neighborhood is L’As du Fallafel (34 Rue des Rosiers), famous for its falafel. Indeed, but be prepared for a potentially endless queue (and patience is not my strong suit…), with no reservations possible, unlike the neighboring « Chez Hanna » at 54. This charming restaurant, typical of the Pletzl spirit, will delight your taste buds with its generous cuisine, lively and dynamic service, and warm atmosphere. Check availability!
• At the intersection with Rue des Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais, there is a Yiddish plaque set against a backdrop of street art and the Chir Hadash Temple bookstore. It’s perfect for lovers of Jewish culture and literature.

As you continue your journey, make a stop at the « Parvis des 260 Enfants ». A plaque commemorates the 260 children from the School of the Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais, the first Jewish school in Paris, who were deported after the Vel’ d’Hiv roundup in 1942 and then murdered in Nazi extermination camps. The façade, adorned with two bronze bullheads in Assyrian style, recalls that the schoolyard was built on the site of an old butcher’s pavilion. Right across, the Halle des Blancs Manteaux was once the liveliest market in the Pletzl. Today, it serves as a popular exhibition space, frequented by the neighborhood’s residents — I make it a point to visit often…

Let’s continue our day with a visit to the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, located in the former Hôtel de Saint-Aignan, a magnificent 17th-century mansion. A statue of Captain Dreyfus greets you in its courtyard. This museum traces Jewish history and culture through a diverse and rich collection: manuscripts, liturgical objects, paintings, sculptures, and historical archives. Special attention is given to the Jewish presence in the arts, featuring artists from the École de Paris (Chagall, Soutine…) as well as contemporary artists (Christian Boltanski, Sophie Calle…). The temporary exhibitions, often bold, delve into contemporary Jewish themes. A full visit takes about an hour, but history and art enthusiasts will likely spend more time here, as this museum is a true gem.

Right next to the MAHJ, I suggest a peaceful break in this secret garden dedicated to the memory of Anne Frank. A chestnut tree, planted with a graft from the tree Anne admired from her window in Amsterdam and described in her diary, stands proudly here. A bronze sculpture evokes the pages of her journal, adding a poignant touch. Two statues also pay tribute to the French poet of Romanian origin, Paul Celan, a Holocaust survivor.

One of the most famous accusations leveled against Jews in Christian Europe was made in Paris in 1290. Jonathas, a Jewish pawnbroker, was accused of profaning a consecrated host by cutting it with a knife. Miraculously, the host was said to have bled, and when thrown into boiling water, it was reported to have flown. Jonathas was condemned and burned alive in Place de Grève, now the site of the Hôtel de Ville. His house was later transformed into an expiatory chapel called « the House of Miracles, » to which the current Cloister of the Billettes was added in the 15th century. Although modified and restored several times, it remains the only surviving medieval cloister in Paris. It is a beautiful place where fascinating exhibitions are now held.

To conclude, we are back at the former Place de Grève, facing Notre-Dame Cathedral, where our journey into the Jewish history of Paris began. This square was the site of the famous “Trial of the Talmud,” a significant event in the history of Jews and their troubled relationship with Christianity. After a lengthy ecclesiastical trial, twenty-four cartloads of the Talmud, deemed « an infamous book, » were solemnly burned here on June 17, 1242, by order of King Saint Louis. This marked the first time such a campaign of destruction against Jewish books took place in Europe, a turning point in the intellectual and religious history of the West.

We have reached the end of our journey. To finish in style and with a wonderful atmosphere, I highly recommend reserving your dinner at Boubalé. Here, Ashkenazi, Mediterranean, and Levantine Jewish cuisine takes center stage in an elegant and intimate setting within the Grand Mazarin. Bon appétit !

The decor, which blends retro elements with modern touches, creates a warm, comfortable, and inviting atmosphere. The large banquettes and soft lighting add a cozy, refined touch to the ambiance. In the kitchen, traditional recipes are thoughtfully reimagined: soup with kneidlach, golden latkes, and gefilte fish, all prepared with high-quality ingredients. Each dish, both flavorful and generous, invites you to discover a cuisine rich in meaning and history.

Place des Vosges

As part of your visit to Place des Vosges, where you’ll find the discreet entrance of the Charles Liché Synagogue (at number 14), take a small detour to admire the façade of the Synagogue des Tournelles, located just behind at 21 bis Rue des Tournelles.

Guided Tour

If you only have 2 hours and want to get straight to the point, I recommend booking a guided tour with Benjamin, who will share his passion for the Yiddish world with you.

One other great option below !

My last suggestion is this other 2-hour guided tour which begins at the foot of Notre-Dame-de-Paris receives all the praise from its participants. See availability below.

To go even further!

Several works particularly fascinated me, here they are below to fill your library and continue the pleasure of your discovery of the Marais.

By David Caron 

By David Caron 

By Alain Vincenot

By K. Benek

By Gilbert Werndorfer

By Roger Berg

Under the direction of Jean-Pierre Azéma

By Dominique Jarrassé

By Chantal Meyer-Plantureux