Gay guide to the Marais district in Paris: exploring the history and LGBTQI+ life of the neighborhood

Our walk to discover Paris’s gay neighborhood begins on the edge of the Marais, in the bustling shopping street of Montorgueil. On January 4, 1750, workers Jean Diot and Bruno Lenoir were arrested here for the « crime of sodomy ».

After a six-month trial, they were strangled and then burned on July 6, 1750, in Place de Grève (now Place de l’Hôtel de Ville), becoming the last people in France to be executed for homosexuality. This plaque, installed in 2014, honors their memory. Four years later, it was vandalized twice by an opponent of same-sex parenting, the « LGBT lobby, » and the organization of the « Gay Games » in Paris. This act is a stark reminder of the ongoing challenges in the fight for equal rights and respect.

While strolling towards Les Halles, step into the Church of Saint-Eustache to admire the famous triptych « The Radiant Child » by Keith Haring. This brilliant American artist completed this masterpiece, crafted in bronze and white gold, just two weeks before his passing on February 16, 1990, at the age of 31, taken too soon by AIDS. Of the nine copies created, one was gifted to the City of Paris, as per Haring’s wishes, by the Spirit Foundation, founded by John Lennon and Yoko Ono. It was chosen to be installed in this church as a tribute to the parish’s dedication to supporting those affected by AIDS.

This luminous and vibrant triptych radiates love and hope—a moving and inspiring stop along your journey

Until the late 1960s, the site of today’s Forum des Halles was home to a massive wholesale fresh food market, housed under the iconic Baltard metal pavilions. This “belly of Paris,” bustling day and night, was also, starting in the 19th century, a space of encounters and fantasies, drawing many men intrigued by the workers of the Carreau. Some of these « forts des Halles » embraced a virile and uninhibited homosexuality, either out of financial necessity or pure pleasure. The surrounding streets (such as Rue des Vertus and Rue Saint-Denis) were home to small prostitution businesses—both female and male—operating out of furnished hotels, back rooms of wine bars, and restaurants. Not to mention the urinals on Rue des Prouvaires, Rue de la Tonnellerie, and across from Saint-Eustache Church. At the Hôtel du Saumon, known as « Chez Saïd, » « uranists » mingled with legionnaires and spahis quietly playing cards while waiting for clients.

Much later, in the 1980s, the transformed Les Halles district, centered around the Forum, became one of the hotspots of Parisian gay life with the opening of numerous restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. The Banana Café (formerly the Broad Side) and Amazonial (click here to book your meal) are among the last survivors of this vibrant era. The influx of gay clientele to the area, aided by the convenience of eight metro and RER lines as well as night buses from nearby Châtelet, transformed some of the older cafés and brasseries. These establishments shifted from catering to the « forts des Halles » to welcoming a more colorful and lively crowd. This was the case for « Le Bon Pêcheur » and the terrace of « Le Père Tranquille. » In January 1977, the opening of the Pompidou Center created a bridge between the Les Halles district and the Marais. Modern art galleries settled in, attracting a fresh and diverse audience.

As you walk up Rue Saint-Martin, step through the porch of Saint-Merry Church. This progressive pastoral center regularly hosts events by David and Jonathan, an association supporting LGBTQI+ Christians since 1972. In a Catholic Church that has historically been far from welcoming toward LGBTQI+ individuals, this Parisian place of worship offers a refreshing openness. Though, perhaps not as much as the Sisters of the Paris Convent of Perpetual Indulgence! I hope you get the chance to meet these veil-wearing sisters at certain events where they promote universal joy in ways that are certainly provocative, but always with a generous dose of humor, self-mockery… and above all, charity!

After strolling past the Stravinsky Fountain (a real friend!) and its dazzling sculptures by Niki de Saint Phalle (an artist like no other), and admiring the massive street-art fresco of Salvador Dalí (a mischievous genius!), take a well-deserved break at Café Beaubourg. This brasserie attracts a chic and gay crowd, where you’ll find a mix of trendy elites and young BCGB gays, drawn to the sleek decor and an ambiance that matches their bohemian-chic lifestyle. Here, people come as much to see as to be seen!

Finally, at 63 Rue Beaubourg, step into the LGBTQI+ Center of Paris and Île-de-France, a cornerstone of the community for over 30 years. More than 80 associations conduct diverse activities here, and its packed calendar offers a wealth of engaging and welcoming events. This treasure trove of resources is not to be missed—a place to learn, get involved, and connect.

Before continuing our walk toward Hôtel de Ville, a stop at Duplex Bar is a must. Located just steps from the LGBTQI+ Center at 25 Rue Michel Lecomte, this iconic bar, founded in 1980, is the last of the pioneering gay establishments in the Marais still in operation today. The high walls of Duplex often host temporary exhibitions, showcasing artists’ work. A significant moment in Duplex’s history also includes the founding of the AIDES organization in 1984, France’s first HIV/AIDS advocacy group, in an apartment on the third floor of the building. For many years, the bar served as the venue for the first informational meetings bringing together doctors, lawyers, patients, and visionary activists engaged in this crucial battle.

As you descend Rue du Temple, take note of number 44, the headquarters of the Syndicat National des Entreprises Gaies (SNEG & Co), founded in 1990 by several operators of LGBT bars, saunas, and cruising spots in France. When the AIDS epidemic was ravaging communities, the association’s fight against public authorities allowed its members to distribute condoms and prevention materials without fear of fines or closures. This advocacy saved lives!

Today, at 12 Rue du Plâtre, you’ll find the lesbian bar ELLES, but it’s important to note that this was also the site of the first gay bar in the Marais, Le Village, which opened its doors in late 1978. A true revolution for the time, as the establishment opened onto the street and offered low prices. The immense success of Le Village triggered petitions from neighbors who were not used to these new visitors. However, the momentum sparked by Le Village’s opening led to the decline of Rue Sainte-Anne, considered elitist and expensive, but it also marked the definitive rise of the gay Marais. A big thank you to Joël Leroux!

In the Notre-Dame Cathedral, facing Hôtel de Ville on the Île de la Cité, the activist group Femen staged a topless protest in 2013, shouting « Pope no more, homophobe dégage » right in the middle of a heated debate. In the same place of worship, Act Up Paris activists, some dressed in drag, organized a parody of a gay wedding in 2015, much to the dismay of the Church of France.

In August 2018, the village for the 10th « Gay Games » was set up on the steps of the City Hall. These « world games of diversity » managed to gather over 10,000 participants from more than 90 countries, representing all genders and sexualities! This was an absolute record in the history of the event… and a thunderous blow to global sports organizations that had been so exclusionary up until then. The FIERE foundation honors this legacy. Moreover, seven years after the Gay Games, the Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games will have never seen so many openly gay athletes.

After crossing Rue du Roi de Sicile, walking up Rue Vieille du Temple leads us to the former location of the « Mots à la Bouche » bookstore, which was situated at 6 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie from 1983 to 2019. This gay Marais institution, displaced by the neighborhood’s skyrocketing real estate prices, was replaced by a shoe store catering to pink money. A shock and sadness for the old guard of the gay Marais… I detail its history in this article dedicated to LGBTQI+ bookstores and literature. Until 2010, this bookstore was the complementary neighbor of the iconic « Le Central » bar (the first gay hotel in the neighborhood as well!), located at the end of Rue Vieille du Temple since 1980. A jewelry store has since replaced it.

Rue Vieille du Temple intersects with Rue des Rosiers, which has been home to the Ashkenazi Jewish community since the late 19th century. The gay and Jewish communities share a history of shame and persecution, which partly explains their peaceful coexistence. During the 1982 terrorist attack on the Goldenberg restaurant, merchants from both communities strengthened their solidarity to reflect on the safety of their clients, who often faced common enemies.

Before heading to the trendy and commercial Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, you can make a small detour to the square honoring Ovida-Delect (1926-1996), a transgender Parisian, resistance fighter, deportee, and poet.

Back on Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, pass by the Halle des Blancs Manteaux, which hosts LGBTQI+ events throughout the year, such as the « Printemps des Assoces » organized by InterLGBT in April, or the LGBT+ Sports Federation Forum in September.

Back at 25 Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, a peaceful break is in order at the Jardin de l’Hôtel-Lamoignon, dedicated to Mark Ashton (1960-1987), a British activist for equal rights.

Now, welcome to the Carnavalet Museum, an institution entirely dedicated to the history of Paris. Madame de Sévigné (1626-1696), the famous writer, born in Place des Vosges, lived for over 20 years in this hôtel particulier. Her letters provide a brilliant and lively portrait of the society of her time, characterized by exceptional vigor and freedom of style. Between the lines, she unveils the loves of Marais inhabitants, including the homosexual affairs of some, which the aristocratic circles of the 17th century were willing to tolerate.

The collections at this museum are absolutely exceptional, and the Paris Gay Village association organizes LGBTQI+ themed guided tours here. Notably, the museum houses a reconstruction of Marcel Proust’s bedroom. Proust, a giant of French literature, was a keen observer (and participant!) in the gay life of the 19th and early 20th centuries (for a deep dive, revisit « Sodome et Gomorrhe » from In Search of Lost Time).

Let’s now head to the heart of the aristocratic Marais, to Place Royale, built in 1605 under the reign of Henri IV and renamed in 1792 by revolutionaries as Place des Vosges. From the 14th to the late 16th century, the site was home to the Hôtel des Tournelles, residence to several monarchs (Louis XII, Henri III, Catherine de Médicis…) before the royal court moved to the Palais des Tuileries.

On a Sunday in 1578, it was here, at the site of the horse market (future Place des Vosges), that the “Duel of the Mignons” brought the neighborhood into the annals of bloody duels… and the queer history of the Marais! Here’s the scene: Henri III (a distant cousin of Henri IV) was a king of great refinement, particularly fond of his entourage of « mignons, » effeminate noble courtiers, made up of foppish, powdered, perfumed men with a notorious reputation and extravagant styles (earrings, extravagant ruffs, and all the trimmings… true drag queens ahead of their time!). Some of these “bedchamber mignons” had the privilege of sleeping in the king’s chamber, or even in his bed – as claimed by the king’s political opponents, many of whom were part of the religious wars. This inner circle of favorites, thanks to their royal protector, enjoyed a meteoric rise, but one that was deeply envied. This is how the political enemies of the king, namely the Catholic League, might have claimed that these « bed partners » were a means to gain favor… Despite their high-prestige appearance, these mignons were no strangers to the battlefield, where they proved to be brutal military leaders. On April 27, 1578, the « Duel of the Mignons, » involving six of these courtiers, turned into a bloody massacre. What caused it? Political disputes ignited by a love affair (heterosexual). The mignon system at court collapsed, and Henri III struggled to recover. Popular memory has, to this day, clung to the notion of Henri III’s supposed homosexuality or bisexuality (still unproven, even by historians with strong gaydar), conveniently sweeping his documented affairs with women under the rug…

Since 1825, an equestrian statue of another French king, whose personal life was also the subject of mockery, has stood at the heart of Place des Vosges: Louis XIII (1601-1643). After adolescent passions for rugged soldiers, coachmen (including the aptly named Saint-Amour), and dog servants, the king’s first serious love was for Albert de Luynes (once governor of the Bastille prison), who exerted a sensual fascination over him, a bond that only death could break.

Now, you can better understand why the consummation of the marriage between Anne of Austria and Louis XIII, which took place on January 25, 1619, four years after the formal wedding ceremony, became a true state affair…

Their marriage turned into a fiasco, although it ultimately gave France (after 23 years of a barren marriage) its greatest king: Louis XIV (1638-1715)… but also his brother Philippe d’Orléans. This younger sibling was dressed and raised as a girl by Anne of Austria so as not to overshadow the Sun King. Once an adult, « Monsieur, the brother of the King, » with his extravagant attire and behavior, entered the annals of history as the greatest « twisted fool » among French royal families… Under his influence, the most gay-friendly court France had ever known left the hotels of the Marais behind, favoring Versailles and the Palais Royal for the loves of inverteds. This marked the beginning of the end of the aristocratic Marais...

To wrap up on Place des Vosges, a small nod to Francis Bacon, who set up his studio-apartment at 14 Rue de Birague behind the Pavillon du Roi from 1974 to 1987

To conclude our walk through the gay Marais, let’s head to Bastille! To do so, let’s leave Place des Vosges, a popular cruising spot for homosexuals and prostitutes in the late 19th century. Let’s stop at 32 Rue des Tournelles (near the restaurants I recommend for your lunch or dinner!). This place was under police surveillance until 1914 for its Hôtel du Mont-Blanc, a small hotel once consisting of a dozen rooms for male couples… who had likely met cruising on Boulevard Beaumarchais or along Rue Amelot.

In the 18th century, the Bastille prison imprisoned the Marquis de Sade for « outrageous debauchery » and « scandalous writings. » Sade later became infamous for his sadomasochistic works. The storming of the Bastille on July 14, 1789, then entered history as the symbol of the Great French Revolution, which initiated the Declaration of the Rights of Man and Citizen and the new freedoms to be fought for. In 1791, although the revolutionaries associated homosexuality with the vices of the Old Regime, the lecherous clergy, and the decadent aristocracy, homosexuality quietly, with no debate in the Constituent Assembly, was removed from the realm of criminal offenses in France. This was after centuries of repression based on the crime of sodomy. No more burning at the stake! A first in Europe! Cabarets like the Soleil d’Or on Rue de Lappe, Le Franc-Bourguignon on Rue des Tournelles, and La Croix d’Or on Rue de la Roquette could then continue to welcome their clientele of « sodomites » without issue…

Until the late 1920s, the Bastille neighborhood was under the scrutiny of the police. On Rue de Lappe, the shady dancing club « La Bousca » was monitored for turning into a gathering spot for « aunts and inverteds » after 10 p.m. To the sound of an accordion, hooligans, sailors on leave, prostitutes, and elderly gentlemen fraternized. To consummate their affections, some rented rooms upstairs… or a mattress in the hold of the La Noïé barge docked at the Arsenal Port. Unless they had already crossed paths earlier in the day at the « vapor baths » at 93 Rue de la Roquette…

In the 1930s, the atmosphere began to shift. With the war looming, the far right started to scapegoat homosexuals (and Jews) for many of France’s ills..

After the golden age of homosexuality in Paris between the wars, the following decades dampened the acceptance of LGBTQI+ individuals in French society. For many, they still lived in the closet, fearing their lives would be upended by an outing in their family or professional circles. Except in a few privileged circles, secrecy took over again, with homosexuality remaining hidden or even shameful.

On May 10, 1981, newly elected President François Mitterrand came to celebrate his victory at Place de la Bastille. The gay community of the Marais was jubilant because one of his « 110 proposals for France » included finally granting equality between heterosexuals and homosexuals regarding the age of sexual consent. On July 27, 1982, the discriminatory measures taken by Marshal Pétain under the Vichy regime were finally repealed.

Since then, Place de la Bastille, a symbol of freedom, has been the starting point or terminus of numerous Gay Prides organized in Paris since 1977. The fight for PACS (Pacte civil de solidarité) was won in 1999, and same-sex marriage was legalized in 2013!

Naked as a worm, the Genie of Bastille, also known as the Genie of Liberty, still mischievously observes the progress of rights from the top of the July Column at the center of Place de la Bastille. From the summit, it seems to watch over the Marais like a guardian angel, a neighborhood that remains, even today, the echo chamber for all LGBTQI+ rights and future battles.

For decades, the Marais has attracted LGBTQI+ couples from around the globe, establishing itself as a true beacon of inclusive hospitality. Local hoteliers, masters in the art of welcoming guests, are renowned for their sense of hospitality and open-mindedness. In the Marais, there are no exclusively gay hotels… because almost all of them are very gay-friendly!

Here, you’ll find a handpicked selection of hotels curated with the help of Hotels.com, featuring top-rated customer reviews for a memorable LGBTQI+ experience. There’s something for every style and budget!

Also at your disposal, professionals to guide you through your explorations.

Would you like to be accompanied by a guide to explore the gay Marais? You’re absolutely right! I highly recommend joining the guided tours organized in the Marais (and many other neighborhoods of the capital) by the PARIS GAY VILLAGE association. It brings together passionate volunteers and experts on the subject, offering tours of rare scholarly depth. Here’s their tour program!

Also at your disposal, professionals to guide you through your explorations.